What is coily hair?
Coils and curls are not the same thing. Sometimes referred to as kinky hair, coily hair is a subset of curly hair. In other words, coils are a specific type of curl. And they require a specific approach to haircare.
In the contemporary version of the curly hair typing system (introduced by celebrity stylist Andre Walker in the 1990s), there are nine curl types, from 2a to 4c, from loose to tight. What is Type 4 hair exactly? Coily hair, AKA “Type 4 hair” is characterized by tight S- or Z-shaped curls which we call coils. There are three subtypes of coily or kinky hair which we will define and describe just below.
4A hair type
This type of curl pattern has small, tight S-shape coils. They are usually finely textured and very twilight coiled. 4A hair tends to be fragile and requires some extra hydration.
4B hair type
This coil type has a Z-shape curl pattern, with sharp angles. The curls are a little less defined than in the 4A type and there’s a little more density and coarseness. For 4B hair, you’ll want to avoid washing too often.
4C hair type
This coil is the coarsest of the Type 4 hair subtypes. 4C coils look similar to 4B coils, but tighter, and with more definition. They appear to have a close zigzag pattern and they tend to be more delicate and dry.
Coily hair vs. curly hair: What's the difference?
As we hinted at above, curls and coils are not the same thing. The term “curly hair” includes a very broad range of curly hair types, from loose and bouncy to dense and tight. Coily hair refers to the denser, tighter end of the range of Type 4 hair. It’s important to be able to identify your curl or coil type so that you properly care for and enhance your hair. Let’s get into the top tips for coily haircare.
How to care for coily hair?
Coily hair, no matter which type, can be a little more vulnerable to dryness and breakage. With coily locks, the oil present in our hair has a tougher time going from scalp to ends, so tight coily hair tends to be drier and more porous. That means that caring for coily hair has its own set of rules. From washing to styling, from hydrating to detangling, here are our top tips for managing and maintaining your coily hair.
Avoid washing too often
Coily hair is the driest curl type. So to protect the natural oils of your scalp and to avoid stripping your hair of its natural moisture, try not to wash and shampoo your hair too often. Frequent washes can also damage fragile coil structures. Our baseline guidance is to wash 1 - 2 times per week. We also recommend using a shampoo designed for curly hair.
Use hydrating products
Hydrating products can help lock in moisture, reducing breakage in coily hair. Consider hydrating shampoos, conditioners and styling products that focus on maintaining moisture. Designed specifically for curls, L’Oréal Professionnel’s Curl Expression range harnesses the power of concentrated salon-grade actives like Urea H. and glycerin to lock in moisture and let your curls shine.
Condition and nourish
For coils, we love a nourishing conditioner, whether leave-in or rinse-out. Always apply conditioners to wet hair. Find a formula that provides intense hydration and makes detangling easy. We recommend using a wide-tooth comb or your fingers, gently working through conditioned hair from top to bottom.
Sleep on (or in) silk
For delicate coily hair, sleep on a silk or satin pillowcase. Or wrap your hair gently in a silk scarf or bonnet. A smooth, slippery fabric creates less friction, leading to less breakage and frizz. Silk and satin also won’t soak up all the moisturizing goodness of the haircare products you apply before bed.
Style your coils
To flaunt your coils, work with them, not against them. There are so many hairstyles that can play up and protect the texture of your coily hair.
Protective styles
Protective styles like box braids can help guard delicate coils against damage, plus they last for several weeks. Just be sure to give your hair a break between tight styles.
An afro or frohawk
An afro or frohawkcan really show off your natural texture, especially with the right moisturizing routine in place.
Wash-n-go
Wash-n-go styleshighlight defined curls thanks to carefully applied styling mousse that can really hold the curls without weighing them down.
Coily hair products: a recap
For coily hair, you want to focus on products – even when it comes to shampoos and cleansers – that nourish and hydrate your hair. Here’s a sample haircare routine for coily hair.
1. Cleanse. Use an anti-residue cleansing gel that hydrates and cleans with a gentle touch
2. Condition. Apply a rich hydrating mask to moisturize and restore shine.
3. Style. Activate your curls with a long lasting intensive moisturizer.
The best way to care for your coily hair is, first and foremost, to embrace your natural texture. Once you gain an understanding of your specific type of coil and its needs, you are well on your way to haircare success. Then it’s a question of adjusting your routine and choosing the right products to ensure hydration so that your coils are happy and healthy.